Two Michelin Stars, Italian Fine Dining Reimagined at 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA Shanghai
- Chomp Magazine
- 2 hours ago
- 3 min read
Word: Pasuta Phongam Photos: Pasuta Phongam and Courtesy
At 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA Shanghai, Italian fine dining unfolds with confidence, clarity, and a distinctly modern rhythm. Helmed by the legendary Umberto Bombana—hailed as The King of White Truffles—the restaurant remains rooted in reverence for pristine ingredients, precise technique, and the understated theatre of impeccable service.
At the two-MICHELIN-starred restaurant, Bombana’s philosophy is timeless yet quietly restless. Classical Italian cuisine is gently pushed forward, infused with playfulness and creative intent—an approach that has secured the restaurant’s enduring Michelin status and a devoted global following.
A new chapter is now led by Nicoló Rotella, recently appointed Executive Chef. Arriving in Shanghai in the summer of 2023, Rotella brings youthful energy and obsessive craftsmanship to the kitchen. His cooking is confident but never loud, defined by balance, finesse, and a deep respect for Bombana’s legacy—while quietly shaping a language of his own.
Alongside him, Ervin Ong, Restaurant Manager and Head Sommelier, orchestrates the dining room with equal precision. Since joining the team in 2021, Ong has become a defining presence, curating wine pairings that feel intuitive rather than instructional. Together, Rotella and Ong form a seamless dialogue between kitchen and cellar—where food and wine move in deliberate harmony.
The experience opens with a quiet olive oil ritual, underscoring Bombana’s reverence for Italian fundamentals. A selection of extra virgin olive oils is offered for tasting, each revealing its own balance of fruit, bitterness, and spice. Grissini—some herb-flecked, others plain—are presented with architectural restraint, alongside warm bread with a crisp crust and yielding crumb. It is a moment of calm precision, setting the rhythm for the courses that follow.
As an amuse-bouche, Vitello tonnato is reimagined with quiet restraint, its familiar richness softened and clarified. Alongside, burrata foam meets clarified green tomato water, finished with tomato powder, extra virgin olive oil, and basil—fresh, precise, and lightly aromatic.
A croustade of red shrimp tartare completes the trio, layered with yuzu kosho, trout roe, basil, and shiso leaves, bringing brightness and texture in a measured, contemporary gesture.
Oscietra caviar is presented with quiet confidence. Paired with tender baby clams and the gentle citrus lift of lemongrass, the dish feels precise and luminous. Briny notes are kept clean and focused, allowing the caviar’s natural elegance to unfold without excess. It is an exercise in restraint—where freshness, texture, and clarity take precedence over flourish. Pairing with MV KRUG 173ème ÉDITION
A standout New Zealand scampi is treated as an object of precision. Gently steamed, its natural sweetness is preserved, then wrapped in crisp sand chives that introduce a subtle vegetal edge. A Thai basil bisque, quietly enriched with Pastis, adds aromatic depth without overshadowing the ingredient at its centre. A modern composition of clarity and fragrance, handled with restraint. Pairing with 2021 Foradori "Fontanasanta"
Rotella’s signature raviolo is an exercise in precision. Filled with Sicilian almond and crowned with Oscietra caviar, it rests in an aged leek consommé that is both delicate
and deeply resonant. The dish unfolds with quiet confidence—measured, textural,
and composed. Pairing with 2018 Equipo Navazos “Manzanilla - Florpower No.111”
Pigeon is treated with restraint and precision. Gently smoked, the meat reveals a deep, elegant savour, offset by the soft acidity of cherry and a whisper of cinnamon that lingers rather than announces itself. A final accent of Xeres vinegar sharpens the composition, introducing a clean, architectural line of acidity.
A minimalist prelude: a translucent, citrus-led bite presented on bamboo and river stone, offering a clean, refreshing pause before the meal begins.
Prugna brings its three elements into harmony. Plum lends a gentle acidity, layered with the herbaceous edge of shiso and the soft, rounded richness of coconut. Light and contemplative, the dish closes the sequence with clarity rather than sweetness.
Joe, in his role as cheese expert, guides the table through a curated selection of three cheeses, each chosen for its distinct character. Accompanied by a thoughtful range of pairings—from honey to olive oil and other complementary sauces—the tasting invites
a quiet exploration of contrast, texture, and balance, elevating the experience beyond a simple course.
Dessert closes on a playful note—plum with shiso and coconut—before giving way to Frivolezze, a refined parade of petit fours that feels more jewel box than sugar rush. The sequence unfolds through a blackcurrant macaron, a white chocolate and pistachio “fake pearl,” and dark chocolate layered with coffee and hazelnut, finished with a lemon-pepper chocolate bonbon.
Set within Shanghai’s historic Rockbund, just moments from the Bund waterfront, the restaurant overlooks the city’s iconic skyline—heritage meeting modernity, much like the cuisine itself. With its two Michelin stars, 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA Shanghai continues to define Italian fine dining in Asia: confident, contemporary, and exquisitely precise. 8½ Otto E Mezzo Shanghai
Tel: +86 151 2118 1743 Website: https://www.ottoemezzobombana.com/branch/shanghai/