Green Star, Grounded — Roganic, Hong Kong

Words: Pasuta Phongam Photos: Pasuta Phongam & Roganic

Roganic, the Michelin-starred and Michelin Green-starred outpost by Simon Rogan, continues its quiet evolution in Hong Kong—now firmly settled into its new home at Lee Garden One. When we visited in March 2026, the restaurant felt less like a reopening and more like a natural progression—confident, composed, and deeply attuned to its surroundings.

There is a sense of lightness upon arrival. The once intimate setting has given way to an expansive, open-plan dining room where daylight moves freely across sculptural forms and tactile surfaces.

Upcycled wood—sourced from trees felled during Hong Kong’s typhoons—grounds the space with a subtle narrative of renewal. It’s a room that doesn’t demand attention, but slowly reveals itself, much like the cuisine it houses.

Sustainability here is embedded rather than expressed. Much of the produce is sourced locally, with herbs and edible flowers grown just minutes away at the Hysan Urban Farm. This proximity lends the menu a certain immediacy—an urban farm-to-table approach that feels both thoughtful and precise.

In the kitchen, executive chef Oli Marlow and head chef Adam Catterall continue to refine Roganic’s modern British identity. The tasting menu unfolds with a quiet confidence. Each dish is measured and restrained, allowing ingredients to speak with clarity.

The progression feels intuitive, guided by a zero-waste philosophy that runs throughout the experience. Pairings, too, are considered—four distinct options that cater as much to non-drinkers as to wine enthusiasts, reinforcing a sense of inclusivity without compromise.

A composed opening gesture. Raw Spanish mackerel arrives clean and precise—oyster lending a saline depth, while pickled kohlrabi sharpens the edge and smoked roe lingers.

The scallop cracker follows, light and crisp, carrying a green, farm-led emulsion. Chioggia beetroot, aerated, introduces a gentle earthiness, offset by slow-cooked ox tongue and pine nut crumb. Alongside, truffle honey bread is served warm—aromatic and softly indulgent—balanced by cultured brown butter.

A study in contrast. Heirloom tomatoes from Chiayi arrive bright and layered—whipped mussel adding a quiet salinity, sugar kelp rounding the profile. Alternatively, a warm seaweed custard offers a more enveloping expression, its silken texture deepened by smoked eel and lifted with a measured touch of horseradish.

A focused composition. Hokkaido scallop is presented with clarity—its natural sweetness amplified by sea urchin cream, while Makauy pepper introduces a subtle citrus lift.

A continuation of balance and structure. Sea bass is composed with finesse—fennel pollen lending aromatic lift, while fermented cauliflower and whey bring a controlled acidity, finished with caper for depth.

Sabah grouper, in contrast, leans into warmth—poached in dulse butter, paired with sweet potato leaf and a sauce drawn from roasted bones, rich and quietly complex.

A confident expression of depth. Guangdong dry-aged duck is lacquered with longan honey—its richness offset by Kalibos cabbage, while blackcurrant and perilla introduce brightness and lift.

Wah Kee Farm pork offers a softer, more rounded profile—whey onion and pickled walnut bringing balance, while apple mead lends a gentle, nuanced finish. A composed interlude. Frozen Yoshida cheese delivers a cool, creamy sharpness, paired with Alpine plum and caramelised soda bread for contrast and depth.

A moment of clarity. Aerated Kyoho grape arrives light and floral—sheep’s yoghurt adds softness, while marigold introduces a subtle aromatic lift.

A refined closing sequence. Ruby strawberries are layered with preserved hibiscus—bright, fragrant—set against Taiwanese vanilla and a warm baked rice pudding.

A gentle conclusion. Chestnut madeleine arrives soft and buttery—paired with caramelised Akesu apples for warmth and depth. Frozen mint cake follows, cool and clean, alongside Assam tea to close.

A decade on from its beginnings as a London pop-up, Roganic in Hong Kong feels assured in its identity. Our March 2026 visit revealed a restaurant that has moved beyond reinvention—settling instead into a rhythm of thoughtful refinement. Roganic Hong Kong Hours: Lunch – Wednesday to Sunday – 12:00pm to 2pm

Dinner – Wednesday to Sunday – 6:00pm to 9pm Contact: (852) 9889 7275 Reserve: reservations@roganic.com.hk Location: Shop 402 - 403, 4/F, Lee Garden One, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Socials: https://www.instagram.com/roganichongkong/ https://facebook.com/roganichongkong https://www.roganic.com.hk/