GOAT Bangkok: Thailand’s Michelin Green Star Benchmark
- Chomp Magazine

- 1 hour ago
- 3 min read
Words: Pasuta Phongam Photos: Pasuta Phongam

Discreetly positioned within Bangkok’s fine-dining landscape, GOAT is not a restaurant that announces itself loudly. Established in late 2020, the space unfolds with measured confidence—its Sino-Portuguese architectural references offering a subtle nod to Thailand’s layered cultural history, and to the Thai-Chinese roots of chef-patron Tan-Parkorn Kosiyapong.

The name, drawn from the chef’s zodiac year, feels personal rather than symbolic. Like the restaurant itself, it resists grand narratives, choosing instead to communicate through precision, restraint, and intent.

GOAT’s philosophy is clear: to work exclusively with Thai ingredients, sourced through long-standing relationships with farmers, fishermen, and small producers across the country. This commitment has recently earned the restaurant Thailand’s newest Michelin Green Star, recognising a form of sustainability that is systemic rather than performative.

At GOAT, sustainability operates as a closed ecosystem. Food waste is separated, fermented, composted, and returned to agricultural partners every three months. Bones are reduced into broths; vegetable trimmings become microbial solutions; used cooking oil is repurposed. Drinking water is served in reusable glass bottles, while tableware incorporates recycled natural materials, including eggshells.

Above the dining room, an edible rooftop garden supplies herbs and flowers used daily in service—an architectural gesture that quietly reinforces the restaurant’s ethos. None of this functions in isolation. GOAT’s model relies on alignment: a kitchen team working with shared intent, and suppliers who understand that ecological responsibility and refinement are not opposing ideas.

The tasting menu reads less like a sequence of courses and more like a geographical survey—each plate anchored to a specific region, climate, and producer.

It begins with Home: banana-fed duck liver balanced against oxtail and watermelon, an exercise in weight and freshness. Welcome to the garden of Goat.

From the Gulf of Thailand, blue crab is layered with curry, house-made sour cream, and aromatic herbs. Powdered torch ginger, yellow curry spices, and kaffir lime leaf introduce colour and controlled intensity.

Trat arrives fermented and floral—mantis shrimp paired with pumpkin from Nan, wild honey, SCOBY, and kombucha. A pumpkin purée filled with honey and rose petals brings texture and gentle acidity, introducing probiotic elements without overt didacticism.

In Surat Thani, the daily catch—aged by fishermen—meets coconut, pickled components, and Hua Hin caviar. Sea snakehead fish is framed by fermented taro, turmeric-pickled green chilli, watermelon, and sweet fish sauce, encouraging a deliberate order of tasting.

Northern Thailand surfaces in Mae Hong Son, where cured pork jowl, ham, chives, and duck egg are accompanied by sato—a traditional rice wine fermented from Kiew Ngu sticky rice, offered in both white and red expressions.
Surin focuses on aged Thai wagyu, presented as a tartare scented with toasted coconut shell and wild herbs: Thai oregano, bael leaf, kaffir lime. A venison alternative from Nakhon Ratchasima mirrors the dish’s aromatic structure. A herb pesto of ginger, scallion, shallot, garlic, shrimp paste, and fish sauce adds depth without excess.

The menu turns southward with Phang Nga, where the catch of the day is paired with ginger and Hua Hin caviar, followed by soft pairings that introduce citrus and subtle effervescence through regional fruits.

The most expansive course, The South, assembles ingredients from across the region. Wild-caught river prawn from the Tapi River is gently confit, served with rice roti, fermented lotus root, pickled bitter melon, and a series of five sauces—torch ginger chilli, jackfruit, roasted coconut, sampao, and coconut-based chilli paste—layered with turmeric, garlic, and tomato powder, and finished with aromatic rice.

Dessert moves east to Chanthaburi, where snake fruit sorbet—developed over four days—is paired with pineapple sourced from Chiang Rai, Ratchaburi, and Phuket. Guava, green oil from Vietnamese coriander, bergamot meringue, rose kombucha, and granita create a composed, restrained conclusion.

In Chachoengsao, buffalo milk infused with fig seeds is served alongside caramelised ladyfinger banana, cardamom custard, black sesame, glutinous rice flour, and pandan-scented coconut tapioca.

The meal closes with Honey: four regional Thai honeys presented with lightly sweetened rice crackers. Each variety—corn-scented Buriram honey, Chiang Mai coffee blossom, banana-caramel tones, and earthy honey from Narathiwat—acts as a final meditation on terroir.

GOAT Bangkok ultimately reveals itself not through spectacle, but through intent—where Thai ingredients, thoughtful design, and a closed-loop philosophy converge to suggest that the future of fine dining may lie in quiet precision rather than excess.
Goat Bangkok
Hours: WED - SUN, 18:00 - 23:00 Hours
Tel: +666 5095 6132
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/goat.bangkok/
Location: 12 Ekkamai 10, Yaek 2, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110









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