Sushi Kuuya Bangkok: Seasonal Omakase Rooted in Japanese Craft

Words: Pasuta Phongam Photos: Pasuta Phongam

At Sushi Kuuya, intimacy defines the experience. Behind the counter, Chef Goji Kobayashi moves with quiet precision, shaping an omakase that is both deeply traditional and subtly contemporary.

Born in the US and trained in Japan, Kobayashi began his journey in Otaru, Hokkaido, before refining his craft in Los Angeles and San Francisco. Nearly two decades on, his approach is distilled—technical, deliberate, and anchored in restraint. In 2024, he was named Young Rising Star Chef, a recognition that feels less like a milestone and more like a continuation.

The restaurant itself is personal. “Kuuya,” a Hakata phrase meaning let’s eat, was chosen by the chef’s father—an understated nod to his Fukuoka roots. Together with his wife, Natwara Kobayashi, the space was conceived as an extension of their shared philosophy: that hospitality is quiet, precise, and deeply felt.

Natwara, a certified sake sommelier with credentials spanning SSA, SSI, WSET and SEC, curates pairings with a similar sensibility—measured, thoughtful, and never overstated. Each pour is selected not to impress, but to align.

At the core of Kobayashi’s craft is shari. The rice is treated with near-obsessive care: washed, rested, and cooked using a custom-modified stove. Even the water is considered. The result is subtle—a gentle warmth, a calibrated acidity—designed not to lead, but to carry. Ingredients arrive with equal intention. Seasonal seafood is flown in from Tokyo and Fukuoka, while details such as Ariake Sea nori—sourced from one of Japan’s most prized regions—speak to a deeper commitment to origin and quality.

'Echizen Crab' The menu shifts with the seasons. In winter, Echizen crab appears—rare, tightly regulated, and regarded in Japan as the pinnacle of snow crab.

'Shirako' Shirako speaks in texture rather than intensity—silky, fleeting, and at its peak in winter. Within the omakase, it offers quiet contrast: soft against structure, delicate yet deeply rich.

'Hirame' Hirame is defined by clarity—both in flavour and form. Sliced almost translucent, it reveals a quiet sweetness and a firm, delicate bite, precise and understated.

'Squid'

'Abi'

'Kamasu' Kamasu arrives as nigiri at its freshest—lightly seared to draw out its natural oils, revealing a clean, delicate richness with a quietly smoky finish.

'Megai Awabi' Elsewhere, Megai awabi is slow-steamed for hours, yielding a tender bite paired with its own liver sauce—dense, savoury, and precise.

'Sake Pairing' At Sushi Kuuya, the sake pairing is thoughtfully curated by our sake sommelier to showcase a diverse spectrum of styles and expressions. From fresh nama sake to elegant junmai ginjo and crisp, dry junmai styles, each selection is chosen to complement the progression of the omakase. The journey moves through refined junmai daiginjo, a sake with wine-like character, and even warm sake to highlight seasonal comfort, before finishing with a lighter, easy-drinking pour—offering guests a balanced and nuanced exploration of sake.

'Kohada' Kohada—cured with salt and vinegar—returns briefly each season, its silver skin catching the light.

'Kuruma Ebi'

'Kaisen Futomaki' The closing notes are considered. A kaisen futomaki, layered with winter ankimo, delivers quiet richness. Kuruma ebi curls into its namesake form, delicate and composed.

'Hakata Uni' Hakata uni is defined by restraint—clean, creamy, and quietly sweet, with a delicate ocean finish that lingers without excess.

'Hakata Uni'

'Otoro' Otoro, cut from wild hon maguro shaped by long-distance ocean swimming, delivers quiet depth—rich, yet precisely balanced.

'Anako'

'Tamako'

'Cotton Strawberry & Pudding' Cotton Strawberry from Nara, prized for its delicate aroma, refined sweetness, and gentle acidity. Served simply as a quiet seasonal finale, paired with a light yuzu milk pudding for a clean, refreshing finish. With only a handful of seats and each course served directly by the chef, Sushi Kuuya resists spectacle. Instead, it offers something rarer: a sense of calm, continuity, and care—where every detail, however small, is intentional. Sushi Kuuya Bangkok Omakase Premium Course: 6,500++ THB (18 courses) Sake Pairing: 1,500++ THB (up to 6 different sake) Dinner: 17:30 PM and 19:30 PM Open: Tuesday - Sunday Reserve: +66 92 916 9299 Location: 2F Vivre Langsuan 34/3 Soi Langsuan, Lumpini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok, 10330 Socials: https://www.facebook.com/sushikuuya/ https://www.instagram.com/sushikuuyabkk/