MIA Bangkok: French Technique, Asian Expression
Words: Pasuta Phongam Photos: Pasuta P. & Kitsadorn Srithai
Pear, galangal and green curry form a fragrant thread through the tasting menu at MIA. In a restored house off Sukhumvit Soi 26, husband-and-wife chefs Pongcharn “Top” Russell and Michelle Goh bring their European training to an Asian culinary vocabulary.
The restaurant holds one MICHELIN star, but its character emerges through smaller details: the sweetness of bamboo, the acidity of passionfruit, the contrast between delicate custard and raw prawn.
Russell’s experience includes London’s Gauthier Soho and Sketch; Goh trained at Le Cordon Bleu Sydney and later led the pastry section at Sühring in Bangkok. Their cooking draws on these foundations while allowing Asian ingredients and flavour memories to shape the direction of the meal.
The opening plates introduce this approach with clarity. Cocollos Oyster places a lightly poached Irish oyster over pear and white turmeric consommé, finished with sliced cucumber and cucumber oil. Gentle fruit sweetness offsets its marine character.
Cuttlefish follows with crisp young bamboo, galangal mayonnaise and galangal gel, bringing an aromatic edge to the bamboo’s natural sweetness.
Prawn Yum moves towards brighter acidity: mango and pink pomelo accompany prawn salad beneath spicy tomato gazpacho and a fine consommé jelly.
Crab Curry takes its cue from yellow curry, combining Japanese pumpkin and salted egg with paprika, crisp rice, lime and apple gels, and coriander flowers.
A warmer, more generous texture arrives with Sourdough Brioche. Confit shallots are folded into butter, then topped with onion ash, crisp shallots and Maldon salt. The accompanying layers explore onion’s sweetness through softness, crunch and a darker roasted note.
Hokkaido Scallop and Bluefin Tuna brings together truffle ponzu and N25 caviar, described during service as smoked with dried rosemary. Shiso, herbs, Lorenzo No. 3 Sicilian olive oil and sun-dried scallop oil extend the aromatic detail. Alongside this,
Cured Hamachi finds a sharper balance in pineapple and passionfruit dressing, with scallop XO sauce supplying a concentrated savoury counterpoint.
The texture shifts again with Shaoxing Wine Chawanmushi, a delicate egg custard served with summer peas and Argentine red prawn tartare. Wasabina, wasabi and extra virgin olive oil finish the dish.
Steamed Turbot, gently wrapped in zucchini, follows with mussels, cuttlefish and creamy barley. A Thai-basil green curry carries fragrant heat through the plate, connecting the fish and shellfish to the menu’s recurring herbal notes.
The main-course alternatives offer two expressions of richness. Free Range Chicken has boudin blanc tucked beneath its skin, accompanied by broccoli and sesame purée, roasted broccoli, broccolini and kale. Garlic foam made with brown butter and shallots meets an orange chicken jus.
Gundagai Lamb Saddle pairs anchovy and salsa verde with sweet potato purée and Jerusalem artichoke in roasted and crisp forms. Tamarind glaze, black quinoa and Albert sauce add further detail, bringing acidity and texture around the lamb.
MIA's pairing list
Guava Sorbet, elderflower foam and Mexican marigold mark the transition to dessert.
Mia’s Cereal Bowl
Mia’s Cereal Bowl brings malted milk chocolate and corn into focus, while the alternative combines Black Sesame Ice Cream with coconut and caramel.
Across the meal, fruit and herbs do much of the balancing work. Pear softens salinity; passionfruit cuts through rich fish; Thai basil gives green curry its aromatic lift. These specific relationships give MIA’s cooking its identity, with technique making each ingredient’s contribution more distinct.
MIA Bangkok Reserve: +66 (0)98 862 9659 Location: 30 Attha Kawi 1, Sukhumvit Soi 26, Bangkok 10110 Book online: SevenRooms Email: reservation@miarestaurantbkk.com Website: miarestaurantbkk.com Instagram: @miarestaurantthailand Facebook: Mia Bangkok
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