Liana, a Beyond-French Restaurant in Bangkok

Edit: Wariya Intreyonk, Draft: Pasuta Phongam, Photos: Pasuta Phongam

Nestled on the second floor of The Corner House—a beautifully restored heritage building that has stood for over a century—Liana, a beyond-French restaurant in Bangkok, brings a unique charm to Charoenkrung's dining landscape. This intimate restaurant, with only 32 seats, goes beyond just offering a fine dining experience; it weaves a narrative of elegance, craftsmanship, and cultural harmony through its contemporary French cuisine.

At the core of Liana are Chef Warach Areerom, AKA. Big, and Chef Soohyun Lee, a Thai-Korean couple whose culinary journey has taken them through MICHELIN-starred kitchens in London. Their cooking embodies a blend of classical French techniques infused with a lively, expressive twist—resulting in dishes that are not only light and vibrant but also deeply thoughtful.

The journey unfolds with an exquisite quartet of Amuse-Bouches, each bite a masterpiece. First, a Squid Tartelette, heightened by a whisper of seaweed and a delicate vanilla sauce that beautifully accentuates the natural sweetness of the tender squid. Next, Kampachi Samphire Croustade provides a delightful crunch and is paired with zesty finger lime, which offers a vibrant burst of citrus freshness that dances on the palate. The third bite is Uni Gougère, featuring a rich, creamy sea urchin filling infused with aromatic house-extracted vegetable oil, elegantly perched atop a light and airy choux pastry. Finally, the Pear-Tarragon Tuile presents a delightful contrast, a crisp and aromatic creation that delivers a tangy note of perfectly poached pear, rounding out this enchanting culinary experience.

Next, a stunning Oyster is elegantly prepared right at the table—a masterpiece layered with silky whey gel and ethereal buttermilk foam and crowned with exquisite French caviar. Each component is crafted with meticulous attention to detail, striking a perfect balance between clarity and complexity, creating a dish that tantalises the senses and invites exploration.

Crab is a truly enchanting course. It's a crab salad, showcasing a tender French brown crab, expertly paired with an ethereal rose-scented foam that tantalises the senses. Accompanying this exquisite seafood is a crystal-clear consommé, delicately infused with the comforting essence of cauliflower and a zesty splash of lemon oil. This culinary masterpiece artfully marries the deep, briny flavours of the ocean with a subtle, floral elegance, creating a dining experience that is as visually stunning as it is palate-pleasing.

Between courses, Liana delights guests with an enticing array of canapés that are both surprising and delectable. Each miniature masterpiece is crafted with careful intention, adhering to the restaurant's commitment to a zero-waste philosophy. This rotating selection showcases seasonal ingredients, transforming them into vibrant and flavourful bites that entice the palate and spark curiosity. Every part of each ingredient is utilised thoughtfully, from crab claws and shells—transformed into deeply flavoured stocks—to delicate tart creations that repurpose overlooked elements in elegant ways.

The third course is Prawn, a smoky and succulent, perfectly charcoal-grilled black tiger prawn, delivering an irresistible flavoีีur profile. It is beautifully complemented by vibrant marinated tomatoes and crisp pickled radish, creating a delightful contrast of textures and tastes. The dish is finished with a luscious prawn head sauce that adds depth and richness to each bite. Following this is a charming bite-sized Prawn Tartlet, elegantly crafted to provide a harmonious blend of flavours that dances on the palate, making it a truly delightful experience.

Liana's house-baked sourdough, with its golden crust and airy, tangy crumb, is served warm, accompanied by rich, creamy butter and fragrant olive oil. This delightful bread acts as a refreshing palate cleanser between courses—its simplicity and thoughtfulness evoke a sense of comfort and hominess that lingers long after.

Next on the lineup is Quail. A quail is expertly dry-aged to develop rich, complex flavours before being grilled to perfection over a bed of glowing charcoal. This technique infuses the bird with a subtle smokiness, enhanced by the fragrant apple wood, adding a delicate aroma that tantalises the senses. The dish is beautifully presented with a shimmering konjac gel that adds a modern twist, paired with a flavourful mushroom consommé that is elegantly accented by vibrant ginger oil, offering a warm, spicy note. To complete this culinary adventure, a whimsical quail wing tuile, artfully crafted and filled with a bright apple gel, adds a playful touch, balancing the dish with both creativity and precision. This creation is a delightful interplay of textures and flavours that is sure to enchant your palate.

The fifth course, Grouper, showcases the delicate, buttery texture of tomato rock grouper paired with a perfectly crispy skin. It is beautifully presented alongside a trio of vibrant sauces, including a classic beurre blanc that adds a luxurious richness. Each sauce contributes its own unique flavour profile, weaving together a tapestry of tastes that elevates the dining experience to new heights.

Lamb is one of the centrepieces of the meal, showcasing tender lamb confit that has been lovingly herb-marinated to perfection. The meat is so succulent, offering a melt-in-your-mouth experience. It is elegantly plated with a dollop of creamy garlic yoghurt that adds a delightful richness alongside vibrant seasonal vegetables that provide a fresh crunch. To complete this exquisite dish, a rich, reduced lamb jus is drizzled generously, enhancing the overall depth of flavour and creating a harmonious balance on the plate.

Another main course, Wagyu, is the art of culinary finesse. This dry-aged meat is expertly cooked to a perfect medium-rare, allowing the rich, buttery flavours to shine through. It is elegantly paired with a rich beef jus that enhances the meat's natural depth, while vibrant Hong Kong kale provides a delightful contrast with its crisp texture. Delicate shavings of truffle add an earthy aroma, elevating the dish with a luxurious touch. Accompanying this ensemble is a velvety potato gratin with layers of creamy, cheesy goodness and a refreshing watercress that introduces a subtle bite, creating a harmonious balance of flavours on the plate.

Desserts present a meticulously crafted trilogy of sensations that tantalise the senses. Begin with the Peach, a silky, creamy panna cotta adorned with luscious slices of seasonal peaches. It’s complemented by a fennel crumble that adds a subtle crunch, while the gin-infused gel brings an unexpected yet refreshing twist to the dish. A delicate tuile crowns this creation, offering a light, crisp texture that elevates each bite.

Next, indulge in the Tonka Bean, expertly crafted by Pastry Chef Soohyun Lee. This rich, velvety chocolate cake is paired with creamy Tonka bean ice cream, alongside a chocolate crumble that provides a delightful contrast in texture. A light cloud of chocolate espuma whispers indulgence, and each bite is enhanced by a sprinkle of almond praline, finished with a touch of elegance from the shimmering gold leaf.

The sweet finale features a trio of delightful petit fours: a velvety Blueberry Cheesecake paired with a tangy plum, a subtly sweet Passionfruit Financier topped with a luxurious salted cream, and a chewy Nougat that delights the palate, lingering sweetly and beckoning for just one more taste. Each dessert is a testament to culinary artistry, promising a memorable conclusion to the dining experience.

At Liana, every course unfolds as a rich dialogue—interweaving diverse cultures, vibrant ingredients, and innovative ideas. It transcends the mere act of dining, transforming into an evening thoughtfully curated with intent, an air of intimacy, and a touch of understated brilliance. Each dish tells a story, inviting guests to savour not just flavours, but the very essence of connection and creativity.

Liana Restaurant

Hours: TUE-SUN, 18:00-22:30

Tel: +666 4696 9966

Website: https://www.lianarestaurant.com/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=61575047216548&ref

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/liana.restaurant/

Email: info@lianarestaurant.com

Location: 951, Floor 2C-1, Charoenkrung Road, Talad Noi, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100