The Fire and Smoke Rise at Kwann Restaurant Bangkok
- Chomp Magazine
- Jul 5
- 6 min read
Located in an intimate and atmospheric corner of Sukhumvit, Kwann Restaurant Bangkok by Chef Joe—Napol Jantraget, Chef Sept—Jirapat Praphotjanaporn and Chef Saki Hishino is redefining the culinary narrative surrounding lesser-known Thai recipes. This innovative restaurant shines a spotlight on original, traditional ingredients, elevating them through the skilled use of charcoal cooking—a method that imparts a distinctive smoky flavour. Coupled with cutting-edge kitchen equipment, Kwaan marries tradition with modernity, creating a unique dining experience.
As guests gather at their elegantly set tables, they are greeted by a charming cocktail trolley, adorned with an array of vibrant seasonal ingredients. The skilled bartender warmly welcomes them, presenting a beautifully crafted welcome drink that embodies the flavours of the local harvest, enticing their senses with fresh, aromatic notes and a delightful presentation.
The five-course tasting menu is a carefully curated journey that emphasises simplicity and the evocative power of memory. Each dish is crafted not only to showcase the freshness and depth of each ingredient but also to tell a story that resonates with diners, evoking nostalgic connections to Thailand's rich culinary heritage. With every bite, guests are treated to a harmonious blend of flavours and textures, ensuring that each course delivers a powerful punch of culinary artistry done right. At Kwann Restaurant Bangkok, dining transcends mere sustenance, becoming an exploration of Thailand's vibrant gastronomic landscape.
The opening trio of snacks sets a delightful tone for the meal. The Crab Beignet arrives crisp and golden, showcasing a filling of lightly smoked crab paired with a southern curry sauce, all wrapped in a fragrant betel leaf—it's a one-bite homage to the vibrant streets of the South, elegantly transformed for a fine dining experience. Kwann Restaurant Bangkok's smoked shrimp and pork sausage delivers an indulgently rich flavour, beautifully complemented by a sweet, sticky plum sauce. And then there's the Saw-Nam, a grilled pineapple tart adorned with smoked coconut, dried shrimp, and a surprising touch of salty caviar—an unexpected combination that strikes a perfect balance in every bite.
The first appetiser features lightly smoked white prawns that beautifully embody the essence of gaeng som, a traditional Thai sour soup. The dish is elevated by a vibrant burnt orange accent, adding a warm pop of colour that entices the eye. A comforting smoked prawn broth envelops the prawns, infusing every bite with a depth of flavour that is both elegant and innovative. This dish strikes a perfect balance, paying homage to its roots while being artfully reimagined for the modern dining experience. It's a clever interpretation that delights the palate and showcases the chef's creativity.
The second appetiser whisks diners away to the sun-kissed shores of the coast with its exquisite interpretation of Pla Tom Kem, a reimagined version of the traditional Southern Thai black fish stew. This innovative presentation features a generous, expertly grilled chunk of dry-aged red mullet, whose rich, savoury flavour and tender, flaky texture create a delightful melody with the luscious Tom Kem sauce. This sauce, crafted with precision, strikes a perfect balance between sweet and salty notes, while delicate droplets of fragrant ginger oil, fiery chilli oil, and aromatic kaffir lime leaf oil elevate the dish to new heights. Together, they create a captivating symphony of flavours and scents that dance upon the palate. To add an extra layer of complexity, the dish is crowned with vibrant pickled shallots and fresh coriander leaves, offering bursts of tanginess and herbaceous brightness that tie the entire experience together beautifully.
At Kwann Restaurant Bangkok, the main course transcends the notion of a single dish, blossoming into a vibrant tapestry of culinary delights that are as soulful as they are meticulously crafted. The first standout is Gaeng Tepo, a stunning presentation featuring tender, smoked, thinly sliced pork neck artfully arranged atop a lush bed of grilled morning glory stems. This harmonious composition is crowned with crispy morning glory leaves, adding a delightful crunch. All of these elements float elegantly in a rich, aromatic gaeng tepo sauce, which masterfully balances savoury, tangy, and comforting nuances—a true embodiment of southern comfort food reimagined through a contemporary lens.
The Fish of the Day, another main dish, promises to enchant the senses with its sumptuous dry-aged red snapper, perfectly grilled to infuse it with a subtle smoky essence that elevates its natural qualities. This exquisite filet is delicately wrapped in a vibrant and aromatic blend of fresh Thai herbs, each contributing to a complex tapestry of flavours. As it arrives at the table, it is elegantly adorned with a bold Thai herbal vinaigrette, accentuated by a hint of chilli paste that adds a thrilling kick. Together, these elements create a dazzling symphony of flavours and textures, offering a tantalising experience.
The third main, Pumpkin, is an elevated version of comforting Fugthong Pun Khai, the stir-fired pumpkin and egg. In this interpretation, the pumpkin is carefully egg-washed and grilled to perfection until it achieves a stunning caramelised exterior, highlighting its natural sweetness and rich colour. It is then generously glazed with a delicate and nuanced homemade miso basil sauce, which adds an umami depth and aromatic freshness. To finish the dish, a sprinkle of crispy fried garlic offers an irresistible crunch, providing a delightful contrast in texture and a final flourish of flavour that truly elevates this culinary creation.
For true meat aficionados, the Grilled Thai Wagyu Belly is nothing short of a culinary masterpiece. This dish is expertly crafted to celebrate the vibrant and rich flavours of Thai terroir, allowing the luxurious marbling and unparalleled tenderness of the beef to shine. As the meat delicately sizzles on the grill, it exudes an enticing aroma that whets the appetite. Each tender bite melts effortlessly upon contact with the tongue, delivering an unforgettable experience that showcases the supreme quality of the Wagyu. The harmonious interplay of spices and char adds depth and character, making this dish an exquisite delight for the senses.
Alternatively, Moo Krob is a tantalising pork dish that showcases an irresistibly crispy texture. Its golden-brown exterior crackles delightfully, giving way to tender, succulent meat that is bursting with flavour. The dish is elegantly drizzled with a luscious, glossy sauce crafted from rich palm sugar and fragrant fish sauce. This sauce is nothing short of a culinary masterpiece, artfully balancing the sweet and savoury notes that harmonise beautifully, creating a symphony of flavours that dance on the palate. Each mouthful of Moo Krob is an unforgettable experience, inviting diners to savour every delicious bite.
Enhancing this remarkable lineup is the Namprik (Condiment) of the Day. Guests may indulge in a delightful Namprik Pla Yang, showcasing tender, succulent giant trevally, expertly grilled to perfection. This exquisite fish is accompanied by a vibrant medley of charred vegetables, each adding its unique flavour and texture. Together, they create a refreshing and spicy accompaniment that harmonises beautifully with the selection of main courses, elevating the overall dining experience to new heights.
While these main dishes are undoubtedly delicious, the experience wouldn't be complete without the quintessential heart of Thai cuisine: rice. The attentive staff offers two enticing options: the fragrant jasmine rice, known for its delicate aroma and fluffy texture, and the delightful u-doi rice, a type of sticky rice which boasts a unique chewiness and sweetness. Guests have the pleasure of choosing one or savouring both, enhancing their meal with the perfect accompaniment that complements the rich flavours of the dishes.
Before indulging in dessert, there's a delightful pre-dessert designed to cleanse the palate. This refreshing O-Aew granita, with its vibrant, icy texture, is beautifully layered with delicate chrysanthemum jelly. Each bite reveals an exquisite balance of flavours, showcasing a clean and aromatic floral note that invigorates the senses and prepares the taste buds for the sweet finale.
The dessert course, titled Coconut & Corn, presents a delightful fusion of flavours and textures. It features a moist coconut cake that is tender and rich, perfectly complemented by the sweetness of grilled corn that adds a surprising hint of smokiness. To elevate the experience, crispy popcorn provides a playful crunch, while velvety coconut butter ice cream brings a creamy richness. Topping it all off is a cloud of roasted coconut meringue, adding an airy sweetness and a beautiful finish to this tropical-inspired dessert.
Kwann Restaurant Bangkok is a culinary gem that beautifully showcases the vibrant essence of Thai cuisine, reminding every patron why it rightfully deserves a prominent position in the fine-dining landscape. With its bold flavours and artful presentations, each dish is a celebration of seasonal ingredients that reflect the rich traditions and cultural heritage of Thailand. The ambience is both inviting and elegant, offering a dining experience that is as much about visual artistry as it is about exceptional taste. At Kwaan, every meal is an exquisite journey through the heart of Thai gastronomy, served with pride and a passion that shines brightly.
Kwann Restaurant Bangkok
Hours: Daily, 18:00 - 02:00
Tel: +668 0076 4370
Website: https://www.kwannrestaurant.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kwannrestaurant
Location: 73/7-8, Soi Sukhumvit 13, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110
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