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  • Writer's pictureChomp Magazine

One MICHELIN-Starred Restaurant Treats Its Plates as Canvases

With its first star in 2019, Canvas is known for its artistic presentation. Texas-born Head Chef, Riley Sanders, is behind the food served in this renowned and multi-awarded establishment.

With the mind of an artist, Chef Riley started by painting his art pieces first before interpreting them into dishes. In addition to his passion for art, he loves Thai ingredients and experimenting with them. Being a foreigner, growing up without knowing how to use Thai ingredients in the traditional ways means his imagination has no bounds. This encourages him to use a variety of techniques when cooking.

Chomp Magazine paid Canvas a visit to experience Chef Riley's unique mind and creativity.

We sat at the counter to have a clear view of the restaurant's open kitchen. We were asked if we wanted still or sparkling water. Warangkana "Bua" Dejsupa, Canvas General Manager, also wondered if we would prefer a wine pairing. Of course, we said yes.

Canvas's current menu consists of 22 courses using only local ingredients. This menu will be replaced on 18 April 2023.

Chomp Magazine found that all 22 courses were exciting, flavourful and had a lot of acidity. However, there were dishes and wine pairings worth highlighting.

The dinner started with dishes: spiced ice; a few shrimp with a lot of flavors; cool, fresh, warm; caviar & maillard meticulously paired with L'amour du Risque Pét Nat Bordeaux 2021 of apple, white peach and rose petal characters.

The spiced ice dish was a refreshing shaved ice made from fresh sugar cane juice, flavoured with avocado, pandan, seasonal sour fruits, garcinia, a glaze made from cold-pressed red spur chilli juice, roasted shrimp paste, and coriander seed oil, leaf, and fresh mint. It was a good palate cleanser before getting serious. The caviar & millard surprisingly went really well with the paired wine.

The caviar from Hua Hin with flavours of maillard: caramelized milk paste, black shallots, fried shallots, toasted galangal, fried sunchoke, sunchoke veloute, buttermilk sorbet, and a buttermilk powder scented with Thai herbs.

A course called whole duck in a bite was a fun course. The team told us to layer them in an orderly manner before eating. The Barbary duck from Khao Yai was aged and turned into thin crisp pieces. Each piece of aged Barbary duck was topped with different combinations of local produce such as red spur chilli, cumin, stink bean, garlic, garcinia cowa leaf, oregano, cilantro, macadamia, and fermented soybean. It was flavourful and had many textures.

Served in a glass bowl painted with aromatic herbaceous squid ink sauce, black & squid was made of grilled squid from Surat Thani marinated with mustard greens, garlic, and pepper leaf. Pouilly sur Loire, Jonathan Didier Pabiot, Loire 2020 was paired with this dish and 2 other dishes: shell of eggs and rainbow & earth. The wine's pear, green apple and pineapple notes complimented them and enhanced the experience.

pigeon #1 and #2 were paired with Fellbacher Trollinger Württemberg 2018. pigeon #1 was pigeon leg from Kanchanaburi is brined, aged, smoked, sous vide, grilled, and glazed in a sauce of santol served with lavender with dried red spur chillies and topped with pickles of radish, red spur chilli, santol, and single clove garlic.

pigeon #2 was another pigeon dish. The smoked pigeon breast was served with rose apple, beet, Vietnamese coriander, candied rose petals, long pepper, black pepper, dried Jinda chilli, and Bengal currant. Despite the differences between the two dishes, the wine had a strong bond with them thanks to its berry, nutmeg, cherries, and herb flavours.

pink & orange, a roasted persimmon ice cream with cold-pressed and frozen cantaloupe juice, finger lime, tangerine curd, GranMonte Syrah sabayon, and a Thai cherry-flavoured meringue, was paired with stone-fruited, lemony and floral Spätlese Cuvée, Kracher, Burgenland 2017. It was very refreshing and bright.

dated dates was a rich pudding of dried Bahri dates from Kanchanaburi flavoured with Issan Rum and dark palm sugar from Phatthalung. It also had textures of tamarind and rice. With a glass of Cellar de Capçanes Vermut de Capçanes and ginger beer, the experience was smooth and tingling.

As Chom Magazine mentioned about the upcoming menu from Canvas, we encourage food lovers to try the recent menu before it's gone.

Open: Tue - Sun, 18:00 - 21:30

Reserve: +6699 614 1158

Location: 113, 9-10 Thong Lo Rd, Klongton Nua, Watthana, Bangkok 10110

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